April 17, 2003 Tuesday
Today are just going to rest and wander around Shanghai. We move on to Hefei tomorrow afternoon.
Chuck was very interested when I ordered a custom made cashmere sweater the last time that we were in Shanghai. He had decided that he wanted a striped one in UCLA colors. (He had seen a red and black one at the shop, so knew that it was possible.) We decided that this would be our first stop.
Since we were awake before the birds, we had to fritter away some time at the hotel. This was the view from our window. I am always struck by the juxtaposition of big new expensive buildings right next to hovels.
The hovel on the left definitely has people living in at least 2 sections.
The breakfast here is much better than the last time we visited. Now, they have a real buffet and a guy making eggs. Unfortunately, they removed the coffee machine and now seemed to be putting out instant already in a pot. Really vile stuff. We switched to tea.
Our first big adventure was using the metro. We walked several blocks (in the pouring rain) to the stop. Bought our ticket without a problem and then looked at the map to see which direction we want to take. One of the many many helpers in the station came right over to help us. We showed him where we wanted to go and he showed us which side of the platform we wanted to stand on. It was the wrong side – but I’ve been helped before – I always check the information.
At the sweater shop Chuck was measured in all directions. The lady and I had much discussion about the sweater. Since I don’t speak any Chinese and she didn’t speak any English, this was quite a feat. We determined the neckline (v-neck), the color (from the sample chart) and the pattern (from the red & black one – a 5 x 2 rib – I counted the stitches.) Then we had to show that we would not be in Shanghai again until June 6. With the help of the calendar, I showed us flying away the next day and then flying back on the 6th. We paid our deposit, received a receipt and waved goodbye.
Our next stop was the Yu Yuan Garden. (Yuan might mean garden. I’m not sure.) Chuck wanted to go to the famous dumpling restaurant for lunch and I wanted to price the flower teas at the tea house. We flagged down a taxi (it was still raining) and showed him on our map where we wanted to go.
When we arrived, a bunch of people raced up to the cab, all shouting at once. I thought that they were fighting for the taxi, but really they all wanted to guide us through the area and sell us stuff. We pushed by and escaped into the large (and more expensive) store right at the edge of the complex. They even had a bathroom that we could use.
We went to the teahouse and did the tea ceremony. (When I had been there before, I didn’t do the ceremony, just tea and nibbles.) We tasted several kinds of tea served in different ways. Two flower teas in large cups, and a jasmine tea in tiny cups.
For those who want to place an order for the flower tea: at the teahouse, the box with 8 different types in individual compartments is 100 ¥. A box of 8 all the same is 80¥. I might be able to get it cheaper at one of the little stores in the area.
When we were all tea’ed out, we went to the dumpling restaurant. We had been there before with our friend Douglas Wang, so we sort of knew the ropes. We ended up in area on the top floor where they have a menu in English. We chose the tasting menu for 50¥ each. It had soup, shumai, sticky rice (in the cutest little one bite bundle), 2 bao type (one with vegetables and one with a green paste), 2 baked (curry & bean paste), 6 of the crab dumplings that the restaurant is famous for and then the ubiquitous watermelon for dessert.
Next, we went to the Flower, Bird, Insect & Fish Market. This was covered and quite loud and smelly. There were about a zillion little birds in cages, tons of fish, some kittens & puppies, many kinds of turtles and lots of crickets.
Since it was still raining, we decided to catch a taxi and go back to the hotel for a nap before dinner.
We met Douglas, his father and his step-son at a restaurant near their apartment. Douglas had called our hotel and told them what to write on a card for us, so that we could show it to the taxi driver. This restaurant is on the top floor of a large department store, much like the Japanese stores. Douglas met us at the door of the store and took us upstairs. Mr. Wang and Oliver were already at the table. They had moved to a better table because Mr. Wang said that the first one had been surrounded with large groups that were smoking and very loud.
We had Cabbage with sea blubber, sweet & sour pork ribs, bean curd, pumpkin, spicy beef with mung bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and lotus root noodles, bok choy mushrooms lettuce corn and dumplings, and stir fried rice. Oliver is 6 and during the meal sang the English songs that he knew – If you’re happy and you know it, clap you hands, and Doe, a deer, both with hand movements, both many many times.
We went back to their apartment after dinner. We had a package for them and they had kept a bag of stuff for me. We also had to see (and experience) Mr. Wang’s new massage chair. It had been a present from Douglas. It does everything but undress you.
Thanks to Douglas, I now have a Chinese sim card for my phone. It is a prepaid one, so I gave him some money to put more minutes on it. When we go back through Shanghai, I will return it.
Fading fast, we flagged a taxi (in the rain) and went back to the hotel.
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